Eating in Hyderabad: biryani, haleem, and where the locals actually go
The biryani rules, the Ramzan haleem trail, Irani chai culture, and the new-wave cafes worth the money.
Hyderabad is a food city first and everything else second. Come hungry.
Biryani (it's serious here)
Dum biryani is basically a religion. Ask for the kacchi version, where the meat is marinated raw and cooked with the rice, and eat it with mirchi ka salan and raita. Sunday lunch is peak biryani time, so order ahead.
Haleem season
During Ramzan the whole city smells like haleem, a slow-cooked wheat-and-meat stew that's rich enough to be a meal and a nap. Follow the longest queue, that's the rule.
Irani cafe culture
Order Irani chai with Osmania biscuits and bun maska at one of the century-old cafes. It's the city's favourite way to do absolutely nothing for an hour, and you should join in.
New wave
Jubilee Hills and Gachibowli have a fast-growing scene of specialty coffee, brunch spots and proper fine dining if you want something more modern. Good for a date or a treat-yourself day.
Street stuff
Hit the lanes near Charminar for fruit, kebabs and chaat. Moazzam Jahi Market for old-school ice cream.